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Home Leaf Color Chart

Leaf Color Chart

Yellow, purple, scorched or speckled leaves on one chart: 20 symptoms with their cause and fix, 12 nutrients across soil pH 4 to 9, the six shades of the rice nitrogen chart, houseplant problems, normal colors and 12 trees in fall color.

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Figure 1. The Leaf Color Chart: a diagnosis flowchart, 20 leaf symptom cards, soil pH nutrient bands, the rice leaf color chart, a fertilizer label, houseplant problems and fall leaf colors.

Contents

  1. 1Diagnosis in three questions
  2. 2Twenty leaf symptoms
  3. 3Old leaves and new leaves
  4. 4Soil pH and nutrient availability
  5. 5Timing nitrogen in rice
  6. 6Reading a fertilizer label
  7. 7Houseplant leaf trouble
  8. 8Normal colors, not problems
  9. 9Fall color
  10. Sources and notes

1.Diagnosis in three questions

The same flowchart as the printed chart. Where a symptom shows first narrows the cause before you look at the pattern itself.

  1. 1Which leaves?
  2. 2What pattern?
  3. 3Likely cause

Where did the change show up first?

Check the lowest, oldest leaves against the youngest leaves at the shoot tips.

2.Twenty leaf symptoms side by side

Every symptom card from the chart: what it looks like, where it shows first, the usual cause and the fix. Filter by kind of problem or by which leaves it hits.

Showing 20 of 20 symptoms

Nitrogen (N) symptom: Even pale green to yellow, veins included; growth slows.
1

Nitrogen (N)

Older leaves first
Looks
Even pale green to yellow, veins included; growth slows.
Cause
Low soil N; leaching rain, cold or sandy soil.
Fix
Side-dress with N fertilizer or compost; new leaves green up.
Phosphorus (P) symptom: Dull dark green with purple-red tints, esp. edges and veins.
2

Phosphorus (P)

Older leaves first
Looks
Dull dark green with purple-red tints, esp. edges and veins.
Cause
Low P, or cold, wet soil that limits uptake.
Fix
Add P only if a soil test shows it is low; warmer soil helps.
Potassium (K) symptom: Yellow, then brown scorched margins; center stays green.
3

Potassium (K)

Older leaves first
Looks
Yellow, then brown scorched margins; center stays green.
Cause
Low K, common on sandy or heavily cropped soil.
Fix
Apply potash (sulfate or muriate of potash) per soil test.
Magnesium (Mg) symptom: Yellow between veins, veins stay green; may redden.
4

Magnesium (Mg)

Older leaves first
Looks
Yellow between veins, veins stay green; may redden.
Cause
Low Mg in acid or sandy soil, or excess potassium.
Fix
Dolomitic lime if acid; Epsom salt spray as a quick fix.
Iron (Fe) symptom: Young leaves yellow to ivory with a crisp green vein net.
5

Iron (Fe)

New growth first
Looks
Young leaves yellow to ivory with a crisp green vein net.
Cause
Often high-pH soil locking iron up, not a true lack.
Fix
Lower pH with sulfur; chelated iron (Fe-EDDHA) acts fast.
Manganese (Mn) symptom: Mottled yellowing between broad green vein bands; brown specks.
6

Manganese (Mn)

New growth first
Looks
Mottled yellowing between broad green vein bands; brown specks.
Cause
High-pH, sandy or very organic soils.
Fix
Manganese sulfate spray; acidify alkaline soil.
Sulfur (S) symptom: Whole young leaf evenly pale yellow-green, veins too.
7

Sulfur (S)

New growth first
Looks
Whole young leaf evenly pale yellow-green, veins too.
Cause
Low organic matter, sandy soil, leaching rain.
Fix
Use a sulfate fertilizer, e.g. gypsum or ammonium sulfate.
Calcium (Ca) symptom: New leaves cupped, tips hooked and burned; blossom-end rot.
8

Calcium (Ca)

New growth first
Looks
New leaves cupped, tips hooked and burned; blossom-end rot.
Cause
Usually uneven watering, which stops Ca reaching new tips.
Fix
Water evenly and mulch; lime or gypsum only if soil is low.
Boron (B) symptom: Thick, brittle, crinkled new leaves; growing tip dies back.
9

Boron (B)

New growth first
Looks
Thick, brittle, crinkled new leaves; growing tip dies back.
Cause
Low B in sandy, leached or very dry soil.
Fix
A tiny dose of borax per soil test; excess B is toxic.
Overwatering symptom: Yellow, limp leaves that wilt even though the soil is wet.
10

Overwatering

Older leaves first
Looks
Yellow, limp leaves that wilt even though the soil is wet.
Cause
Soggy soil starves roots of air; root rot follows.
Fix
Let soil dry between waterings; improve drainage.
Drought symptom: Dull, wilting leaves with crisp brown edges and tips.
11

Drought

Whole plant
Looks
Dull, wilting leaves with crisp brown edges and tips.
Cause
Dry soil, heat or wind, or damaged roots.
Fix
Water deeply and less often; mulch to hold moisture.
Sunscald symptom: Bleached white to tan, papery patches mid-leaf.
12

Sunscald

Sun-facing leaves
Looks
Bleached white to tan, papery patches mid-leaf.
Cause
Sudden strong sun or heat, e.g. on new transplants.
Fix
Harden off gradually; give shade in heat waves.
Frost damage symptom: Dark, water-soaked patches that blacken and go limp.
13

Frost damage

Exposed, top growth
Looks
Dark, water-soaked patches that blacken and go limp.
Cause
Freezing nights on tender, frost-sensitive growth.
Fix
Cover plants on cold nights; trim only once frost has passed.
Salt / fertilizer burn symptom: Brown, dead tips and edges; white crust may form on soil.
14

Salt / fertilizer burn

Older leaves first
Looks
Brown, dead tips and edges; white crust may form on soil.
Cause
Too much fertilizer, salty water or de-icing salt.
Fix
Flush the soil with plenty of clean water; feed less.
Herbicide injury symptom: Cupped, twisted, strap-like new leaves.
15

Herbicide injury

New growth first
Looks
Cupped, twisted, strap-like new leaves.
Cause
Drift of hormone weedkillers (2,4-D, dicamba) or manure with residues.
Fix
No cure; avoid drift and untested manure; new growth may recover.
Spider mites symptom: Fine pale stippling, bronzed sheen, fine webbing.
16

Spider mites

Leaf undersides
Looks
Fine pale stippling, bronzed sheen, fine webbing.
Cause
Tiny sap-sucking mites; worst in hot, dry weather.
Fix
Hose leaf undersides; insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Fungal leaf spot symptom: Brown, often ringed spots with yellow halos.
17

Fungal leaf spot

Lower leaves first
Looks
Brown, often ringed spots with yellow halos.
Cause
Fungi spread by splashing water and wet leaves.
Fix
Remove spotted leaves; water the soil, not foliage; space plants.
Rust symptom: Yellow flecks; orange powdery pustules, mostly beneath.
18

Rust

Any leaves
Looks
Yellow flecks; orange powdery pustules, mostly beneath.
Cause
Rust fungi, favored by humid weather and wet leaves.
Fix
Remove infected leaves; improve airflow; grow resistant types.
Powdery mildew symptom: White, flour-like coating that rubs off.
19

Powdery mildew

Any leaves
Looks
White, flour-like coating that rubs off.
Cause
A fungus favored by humid air, shade and crowding.
Fix
More sun and airflow; potassium bicarbonate, sulfur or neem.
Mosaic virus symptom: Mottled light and dark green patches; puckered leaves.
20

Mosaic virus

New growth first
Looks
Mottled light and dark green patches; puckered leaves.
Cause
Viruses spread by aphids, hands, tools or seed.
Fix
No cure: remove plants, control aphids, plant resistant types.

3.Old leaves and new leaves

Where a deficiency shows first depends on whether the plant can move that nutrient. Tap a nutrient to see its symptom.

A young plant whose lowest pair of leaves is yellow from nitrogen shortage and whose newest leaves are ivory with green veins from iron shortage; a purple arrow runs from the old leaves up to the shoot tip
Figure 2. Nitrogen moves from old leaves to new growth; iron stays put.

New leaves show it first

Immobile nutrients stay where they were first placed, so new growth runs short first. Zinc and copper behave alike. Look for pale or distorted shoot tips while lower leaves stay green.

Old leaves show it first

Mobile nutrients are pulled out of old leaves to feed new growth (the arrow). Look for yellowing that climbs from the bottom while the top stays green.

Nitrogen (N) symptom on a leaf

Nitrogen (N)

Even pale green to yellow, veins included; growth slows.

See the full card for Nitrogen (N)

4.Soil pH and nutrient availability

The soil can hold a nutrient and still starve the plant. Each band is widest where that nutrient is most available to roots. Slide the pH to see what is plentiful and what gets tied up.

6.5slightly acid
NutrientAvailability, pH 4 to 9At this pH Nnitrogenplentifulnitrogen: plentifulPphosphorusplentifulphosphorus: plentifulKpotassiumplentifulpotassium: plentifulSsulfurplentifulsulfur: plentifulCacalciumplentifulcalcium: plentifulMgmagnesiumplentifulmagnesium: plentifulFeironreducediron: reducedMnmanganesereducedmanganese: reducedBboronplentifulboron: plentifulCucopperplentifulcopper: plentifulZnzincplentifulzinc: plentifulMomolybdenumreducedmolybdenum: reduced
PrimarySecondaryMicronutrientsSweet spot, pH 6–7

Figure 3. Relative availability of 12 nutrients from pH 4 to 9. The pin marks the pH you choose.

At pH 6.5, no nutrient is badly tied up; iron, manganese and molybdenum are less available.

The sweet spot for most garden plants: nearly everything is within reach.

5.Timing nitrogen with a leaf color chart

The IRRI / PhilRice leaf color chart (LCC) times nitrogen top-dressing in rice by how green the leaves are. Pick a shade, tap a leaf to record each reading, and the chart’s rule gives the call.

Six-panel leaf color chart running from yellowish green (1) to dark green (6), with a red marker after panel 3 and a rice leaf laid across it
Figure 4. The six-panel rice leaf color chart, shade 1 (yellowish green) to shade 6 (dark green).
1 · Pick a shade (half values for in-between)
2 · Tap each of 10 leaves to record it
0 of 10 leaves readRead the topmost fully expanded leaf on 10 healthy plants.
  1. Sample the topmost fully expanded leaf on 10 healthy plants (hills) in a uniform field.
  2. Read the middle of the leaf against the chart, without picking it, shaded by your body; direct sun skews it.
  3. Stay consistent: same reader, same time of day (8–10 am avoids glare). Between shades? Use the half value, e.g. 3.5.
  4. Decide: if 5 or more of the 10 leaves read below 4, top-dress about 30 kg N/ha (about 65 kg urea).
  5. Repeat every 7–10 days from 14 days after transplanting (21 after direct seeding) to early flowering.

Critical value 4 suits most irrigated lowland rice; 3 is used for some basmati and aromatic types, and the current IRRI chart has 4 panels. Follow your local recommendation.

6.Reading a fertilizer label

Three numbers, always in N-P-K order, as percent by weight. Enter any label to see how much nitrogen, phosphate and potash you are actually buying.

A kraft-paper bag of all-purpose plant food labelled 10-10-10, net weight 20 pounds, with granules spilled beside it
Figure 5. A 20 lb bag of 10-10-10 holds 2 lb each of N, P2O5 and K2O.
What the bag holds
Nitrogen (N)2 lbleafy green growth
Phosphate (P2O5)2 lb= 0.87 lb of elemental P
Potash (K2O)2 lb= 1.66 lb of elemental K
NP2O5K2Ocarrier and other ingredients
How much of this product?
To apply lbof

You need 10 lb of this 10-10-10 product, about 50% of the bag.

A common lawn rate is about 1 lb of N per 1,000 sq ft per feeding; garden rates vary. Buy the ratio your soil test calls for; many soils already hold plenty of P.

N

10% nitrogen (N): leaves; fast, green, leafy growth.

P

10% phosphate (P2O5): roots, flowers, fruit and seed.

K

10% potash (K2O): overall health; water use, sturdy stems, disease and cold hardiness.

P and K are listed as oxides: P2O5 is 44% P, K2O is 83% K. The rest of the bag is carrier that spreads the nutrients evenly.

How fast a fix shows

Typical; varies with plant and weather. Damaged leaves will not turn green again: judge a fix by the new growth.

  1. Day 0Fix the cause: feed, water, shade or spray.
  2. Within daysFoliar sprays green new leaves; repeat as growth appears.
  3. 1–3 weeksSoil-applied fertilizer shows in new leaves.
  4. Months to yearsLime or sulfur shifts soil pH slowly.

7.Houseplant leaf trouble

Indoor plants rarely run short of nutrients first. Light, water, air and the pot cause most problems. Tick what you see to rank the likely causes.

Pick one or more clues above.

Potted houseplant showing: Yellow, limp lower leaves; soil stays soggy.

Overwatered

Yellow, limp lower leaves; soil stays soggy. Fix: let the top inch dry out.

Potted houseplant showing: Wilting, crisp brown edges; pot feels light.

Underwatered

Wilting, crisp brown edges; pot feels light. Fix: soak well, then drain.

Potted houseplant showing: Small, pale new leaves; leggy stems lean to light.

Too little light

Small, pale new leaves; leggy stems lean to light. Fix: brighter spot or grow light.

Potted houseplant showing: Bleached, faded or scorched patches.

Harsh direct sun

Bleached, faded or scorched patches. Fix: filter the light; acclimate slowly.

Potted houseplant showing: Dark, limp patches or sudden leaf drop.

Cold draft

Dark, limp patches or sudden leaf drop. Fix: keep away from doors, vents and cold glass.

Potted houseplant showing: Crisp brown tips and edges.

Dry air

Crisp brown tips and edges. Fix: humidifier, pebble tray or grouping plants.

Potted houseplant showing: Brown tips on dracaena, spider and ti plants.

Fluoride, chlorine

Brown tips on dracaena, spider and ti plants. Fix: rain or distilled water.

Potted houseplant showing: Dries out fast; slow growth; roots circle the pot.

Root-bound

Dries out fast; slow growth; roots circle the pot. Fix: repot one size up.

Potted houseplant showing: A few of the oldest, lowest leaves yellow and drop.

Natural aging

A few of the oldest, lowest leaves yellow and drop. Normal: just pick them off.

8.Normal colors, not problems

Some odd colors are bred in or seasonal. If every new leaf shows the same pattern and the plant grows well, leave it alone.

Normal leaf color, not a problem: variegated

Variegated

Cream or white patterns repeat on every new leaf; bred in. E.g. hosta, pothos, ivy.

Normal leaf color, not a problem: purple foliage

Purple foliage

Anthocyanin-rich cultivars stay purple all season. E.g. purple basil, smokebush.

Normal leaf color, not a problem: red new growth

Red new growth

Young leaves flush red, then green as they mature. E.g. photinia, roses, mango.

Normal leaf color, not a problem: silver or gray

Silver or gray

Hairs or wax reflect light; it does not rub off like mildew. E.g. lamb’s ear.

Normal leaf color, not a problem: inner needle drop

Inner needle drop

Pines and arborvitae shed their oldest inner needles each fall; branch tips stay green.

Rule of thumb

The same pattern on every new leaf of a plant that grows well is the variety, not a problem.

9.What happens to leaves in autumn

Lengthening nights end chlorophyll production. Drag through one sugar maple leaf’s autumn and watch which pigments are left in charge.

Sugar maple leaf, summer stageSugar maple leaf, turning stageSugar maple leaf, peak stageSugar maple leaf, late stageSugar maple leaf, fallen stage
Figure 6. One sugar maple leaf from summer green to fallen brown.
Stage 1 of 5Summer

The leaf makes chlorophyll all season, breaking it down and replacing it. The green masks yellow carotenoids that are there all along.

Chlorophyll
Carotenoids
Anthocyanins
Tannins

Pigment levels are illustrative, not measured.

Chlorophyllgreen

Made all summer, broken down as nights lengthen. As it fades, the other colors appear.

Carotenoidsyellow & orange

Present all year, hidden by green; unmasked in fall. Aspen, birch, ginkgo, hickory.

Anthocyaninsred & purple

Newly made in fall from sugars trapped in the leaf. Maples, sumac, dogwood, sweetgum.

Tanninsbrown

Left behind when other pigments break down; dominate in many oaks and beech.

Brightest reds: warm, sunny days and cool nights (below about 7 °C / 45 °F) without frost.

Duller or delayed: summer drought, a warm cloudy autumn, or an early hard freeze.

Typical fall color by tree

Dots show the main pigment. Filter by pigment.

Sugar maple leaf in fall, orange, red, yellow

Sugar maple

orange, red, yellow

main pigments: carotenoids, anthocyanins
Red maple leaf in fall, brilliant scarlet

Red maple

brilliant scarlet

main pigments: anthocyanins
Sweetgum leaf in fall, purple, red, orange

Sweetgum

purple, red, orange

main pigments: anthocyanins, carotenoids
Staghorn sumac leaf in fall, scarlet

Staghorn sumac

scarlet

main pigments: anthocyanins
Dogwood leaf in fall, red to purple

Dogwood

red to purple

main pigments: anthocyanins
Black tupelo leaf in fall, crimson

Black tupelo

crimson

main pigments: anthocyanins
Ginkgo leaf in fall, butter yellow

Ginkgo

butter yellow

main pigments: carotenoids
Quaking aspen leaf in fall, golden yellow

Quaking aspen

golden yellow

main pigments: carotenoids
Tulip tree leaf in fall, clear yellow

Tulip tree

clear yellow

main pigments: carotenoids
Paper birch leaf in fall, bright yellow

Paper birch

bright yellow

main pigments: carotenoids
Red oak leaf in fall, russet to brown

Red oak

russet to brown

main pigments: anthocyanins, tannins
White oak leaf in fall, wine-red to brown

White oak

wine-red to brown

main pigments: tannins, anthocyanins

Sources and notes

Symptoms overlap, and more than one problem can occur at once. Check watering, weather and pests first, then confirm nutrient problems with a soil test or plant tissue test before you fertilize.

Availability bands are relative and drawn after the classic soil-pH chart; actual levels depend on the soil. Houseplant and normal-color notes are general advice.

  1. IRRI Rice Knowledge Bank
  2. PhilRice Rice Technology Bulletin 24
  3. University of Maryland FS-1054 (soil pH)
  4. K-State, Cornell, Missouri, Iowa State, Minnesota, Colorado State, South Dakota State and Clemson extension
  5. USDA Forest Service