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Garlic Growth Stages Chart

Garlic takes about nine months, from a single clove planted in fall to a cured bulb the next summer. Follow the nine stages, find your planting window, compare the eight variety groups and check when your crop is ready to dig.

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Figure 1. The Garlic Growth Stages Chart follows one clove from fall planting to a cured bulb, with eight variety groups, planting windows for zones 3–9 and harvest signs. Select it to open full size, then zoom in.

Contents

  1. 1The nine stages of the garlic year
  2. 2Planting at the right time
  3. 3Hardneck and softneck garlic
  4. 4Eight variety groups compared
  5. 5Feeding, water and scapes in spring
  6. 6Knowing when to dig
  7. 7Curing and storing the crop
  8. 8Problems through the season
  9. Sources and notes

1.The nine stages of the garlic year

Garlic is planted as a single clove in fall, roots before winter, sits out the cold under mulch and does nearly all of its leaf and bulb growth between March and July. Choose a stage to see the plant and what it needs from you. The dates are typical for zones 5 and 6; growth starts earlier in mild climates.

Garlic planting stage: two cloves, pointed end up, about 2 inches deep in a cut-open bed of soil, with two more cloves on the surface

Stage 1 · September to November

Planting

Plant single cloves pointed end up, about 2 in deep and 4–6 in apart, 3–6 weeks before the ground freezes.

What to doSplit bulbs into cloves a day or two before. Plant the biggest cloves 2 in deep and 4–6 in apart, flat base down.

Months shaded: when the stage usually happens, September to August.

Figure 2. Each stage stands in a bed cut open to show the clove or bulb and its roots. Bulbs are drawn larger than life so they show up.

2.Planting at the right time

Plant 3–6 weeks before the ground freezes. That gives the cloves time to root, but not enough warmth to push much top growth that winter could kill. Garlic also needs 6–8 weeks below 40°F before the bulb will divide into cloves, which is why it is planted in fall. Pick your zone, or enter the date your ground usually freezes.

Plant Sep 16 to Nov 1Zone 6: mid September to October. Most groups grow well here.
planting window
Three garlic cloves set pointed end up about 2 inches deep in a cut-open bed, with a thick layer of straw mulch on top
Figure 3. Cloves in the bed, a hand's width apart, under straw spread once the soil starts to freeze.
Planting by the numbers
CloveLargest cloves; split bulbs a day or two before
Depth2 in; 1–2 in in the South, 3–4 in in the far North
Spacing4–6 in apart; rows 12–18 in, or 5 x 5 in beds
Soil pH6.0–7.0, loose and well drained
Mulch3–6 in straw once the ground starts to freeze
Seed stock2–5 lb of bulbs per 100 ft of row
Yieldabout 4–7 lb per 10 ft of row

3.Hardneck and softneck garlic

Every garlic is one of two subspecies. Hardnecks send up a woody flower stalk, the scape, and form one ring of large cloves around it. Softnecks rarely bolt; their necks stay soft and pliable, and the cloves pack in several layers. Cut a bulb in half and the difference is plain to see.

A purple stripe hardneck bulb cut in half: one ring of large cloves, each with a pale green sprout inside, around a stiff central stalk
Figure 4. Hardneck, cut lengthwise: one ring of cloves around a stiff stalk.
An artichoke softneck bulb cut in half: large outer cloves and smaller inner cloves in layers, with no central stalk
Figure 5. Softneck, cut lengthwise: outer and inner layers, no stalk.
How they differ
HardneckSoftneck
Flower stalkWoody scape with bulbilsRarely or never
Cloves4–12 in one ring10–40 in 3–5 layers
CentreStiff stalkSoft leaf sheaths
ColdHardiestLess hardy
Storage3–6 months6–9, up to 12 months
BraidingNoYes

4.Eight variety groups compared

Garlic growers sort the named varieties into groups that share a look, a clove count and a storage life. Hardnecks suit cold winters; Creole and the softnecks suit mild ones. Storage times are for room conditions after curing; the paler bar end shows the longer life some groups reach in a cool store.

8 of 8 groups
Porcelain garlic bulb

Porcelain

Hardneck
4–7 cloves a bulb, about 35 per lb
Keeps 5–8 months
0–12 months

Music, German Extra Hardy, Georgian Crystal

Few, very large cloves; very cold hardy; hard to peel.

Rocambole garlic bulb

Rocambole

Hardneck
6–11 cloves a bulb
Keeps 3–4 months, up to 6 cool
0–12 months

Spanish Roja, Russian Red, Killarney Red

Rich flavour; loose skins peel easily; scape coils 2–3 times.

Purple Stripe garlic bulb

Purple Stripe

Hardneck
8–12 cloves a bulb, about 60 per lb
Keeps 5–7 months
0–12 months

Chesnok Red, Metechi, Persian Star

Purple-streaked wrappers; very flavourful; Marbled and Glazed forms.

Asiatic garlic bulb

Asiatic

Weak bolting
Medium cloves, about 50 per lb
Keeps 5–7 months
0–12 months

Korean Mountain, Asian Tempest, Pyong Vang

Scapes do not curl; cloves split if dug late.

Turban garlic bulb

Turban

Weak bolting
Cloves of mixed size, about 60 per lb
Keeps 3–5 months
0–12 months

Chengdu, Red Janice, Xian

Matures 1–3 weeks before other types.

Creole garlic bulb

Creole

Weak bolting
Small bulbs
Keeps 6–8 months
0–12 months

Ajo Rojo, Burgundy, Creole Red

Rose-red cloves; for warm climates and mild winters.

Artichoke garlic bulb

Artichoke

Softneck
12–20 cloves a bulb, about 80 per lb
Keeps 6–9 months
0–12 months

Inchelium Red, California Early, California Late

Needs the least cold; matures first; mild to hot.

Silverskin garlic bulb

Silverskin

Softneck
8–24 cloves a bulb, about 90 per lb
Keeps 9–12 months
0–12 months

Nootka Rose, Silver Rose, Mild French

Longest keeper and best for braids; matures last.

Figure 6. One bulb from each group. Clove counts per pound of seed garlic come from the University of Alaska Fairbanks; Rocambole and Creole were not given.

5.Feeding, water and scapes in spring

Garlic makes its leaves in spring and its bulb in early summer, and each leaf becomes one of the papery wrappers around the bulb. So the plant needs nitrogen and water while it is building leaves, and neither once the bulb begins to swell. Late nitrogen can shorten storage life.

MarAprMayJunJul
Feed
Water
Scapes
Dig
  1. March to April: Feed nitrogen as shoots emerge.
  2. April to May: Feed again 3–4 weeks later.
  3. April to June: Water about 1 in a week if dry.
  4. June: Stop feeding once bulbs swell.
  5. Late June: Stop watering 1–2 weeks before harvest.
A hardneck garlic plant in a mulched bed with its flower stalk, the scape, curled into one full loop above the leaves
Figure 7. A scape that has made one loop: the time to snap it off. Removing scapes typically adds 5–15% to bulb size, up to 30% or more on poor soil. The scapes are good to eat.

6.Knowing when to dig

A garlic plant has roughly ten leaves, and the lower ones die from the bottom up as the bulb matures. Each green leaf still above ground is a wrapper layer still around the bulb. Dig too early and the bulb is small; dig too late and the wrappers split, cloves separate and the bulb will not keep. Count the brown leaves on a typical plant.

Brown leaves out of 10

Ready: dig nowAbout half the leaves are brown, so four to six wrapper layers remain around the bulb.

Lift with a fork, never pull by the stem, and keep the bulbs out of hot sun. Stop watering 1–2 weeks before harvest.

A garlic plant ready to dig, with half its leaves brown and the full bulb visible in the cut-open soil
Figure 8. Half the leaves brown: ready to dig.

7.Curing and storing the crop

Freshly dug garlic needs to dry before it will keep. Hang it in bunches or spread whole plants on a rack in warm, dry, airy shade. When the necks are tight and the outer skins papery, trim the roots to about 1/4 in and the stems to 1–2 in. Brush off loose soil, but do not wash the bulbs.

Cured garlic bulbs with trimmed roots and stems: a white softneck, a purple stripe and a rocambole, with one bulb cut in half and two loose cloves
Figure 9. Cured and trimmed bulbs. Keep the biggest, firmest bulbs for planting.
Curing and storage conditions
Curing2–4 weeks, warm, dry, airy shade
Kitchenabout 60°F, 50–60% humidity
Cold store32–35°F, 65–70% humidity, 6–7 months
Avoid40–50°F (fridge): bulbs sprout
Seed stockabout 50°F, 65–70% humidity
Shelf lifeHardnecks 3–6 months, softnecks 6–9 and up to 12

8.Problems through the season

Most garlic troubles arrive on infected seed cloves, so the best defence is certified or tested seed garlic and a 3–4 year rotation away from onions, leeks and their relatives. Pick a stage to see what to watch for.

All 9 problems; chips show the stages when each one strikes

White rot

What you seeLower leaves yellow and collapse; fluffy white mould and black specks at the base

What to doPlant clean seed; the specks live 20+ years, so stop growing alliums there

Fusarium basal rot

What you seeLeaf tips die back; basal plate rots brown, roots turn pinkish

What to doTested seed, rotation, quick curing and cool storage

Rust

What you seePale flecks turn into orange pustules on older leaves

What to doRotate 2–3 years; space for airflow; no resistant garlic known

Leek moth

What you seeLarvae mine leaves and scapes; holes and frass in the centre

What to doFloating row cover; dry harvested bulbs under cover

Stem and bulb nematode

What you seeStunted plants; soft, swollen bulbs with few roots

What to doClean seed; never replant infested stock; rotate 3+ years

Bulb mites

What you seeWeak, patchy stand; tiny mites at the basal plate, often with rot

What to doLet old crop residue break down; plant clean, firm cloves

Blue mould

What you seeBlue-green mould on cloves; gaps where cloves rotted

What to doSplit bulbs just before planting; discard any mouldy clove

Botrytis neck rot

What you seeSoft, water-soaked neck, then grey mould and black specks

What to doCure with good airflow; cull any soft-necked bulbs

Onion thrips

What you seeSilvery streaks and flecks on the leaves

What to doStrong water sprays; spray only heavy infestations

Sources and notes

Figures are from US university extension services and the Ontario agriculture ministry. Where sources disagree, the chart gives the common range: for example curing times run from 1 to 6 weeks and harvest signs from a third to half of the leaves brown. Planting windows by zone are compiled from state planting calendars and the 3–6 week rule.

  1. University of Maine Cooperative Extension. Bulletin #2063, Growing Garlic in Maine.
  2. University of Maine Cooperative Extension. Maine Garlic Pest Field Notebook.
  3. UW-Madison Division of Extension. Garlic, Allium sativum (Wisconsin Horticulture).
  4. Cornell CALS. Plan on Garlic This Fall.
  5. Cornell Cooperative Extension Warren County. Garlic.
  6. Penn State Extension. Garlic Production.
  7. Oregon State University Extension. Garlic (Fall).
  8. Oregon State University Department of Horticulture. Garlic, Oregon Vegetables.
  9. University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension. Growing Garlic in Alaska (HGA-00047).
  10. University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension. Garlic Production in the Home Garden (G2221).
  11. Washington State University Extension. Growing Garlic in Home Gardens (FS162E).
  12. Utah State University Extension. How to Grow Garlic in Your Garden.
  13. Montana State University Extension. Growing Garlic in Montana (MontGuide).
  14. University of Georgia Extension. Garlic Production for the Gardener (C854).
  15. Virginia Cooperative Extension. Virginia's Home Garden Vegetable Planting Guide (426-331).
  16. University of Illinois Extension. Planting and Growing Garlic.
  17. Ohio State University CFAES. Growing Garlic in the Garden (HYG-1627).
  18. University of Delaware Cooperative Extension. Garlic Scapes (Weekly Crop Update).
  19. UC Statewide IPM Program. White Rot; Rust; Fusarium Basal Rot.
  20. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Garlic (J. Masabni).
  21. Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Agribusiness. Garlic production.